INDEX:

TROUBLESHOOTING:

*INSERT TRANS PAN PICTURE HERE*

THM200-4R

THERE ARE 5 WAYS FOR AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TO FAIL:

1. POOR ENGINE PERFORMANCE

2. IMPROPER ADJUSTMENTS

3. HYDRAULIC MALFUNCTIONS

4. MECHANICAL MALFUNCTIONS

5. MALFUNCTIONS IN THE COMPUTER OR SIGNAL NETWORK

CHECK THE EASIEST THINGS FIRST:

1. FLUID LEVEL AND CONDITION

2. SHIFTER LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT

3. THROTTLE VALVE CABLE ADJUSTMENT

4. VACUUM LINES AND FITTINGS

5. ISOLATE THE UNIT / CIRCUIT MALFUNCTIONING

THERE ARE 5 WAYS FOR AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TO FAIL:

1. POOR ENGINE PERFORMANCE

2. IMPROPER ADJUSTMENTS

3. HYDRAULIC MALFUNCTIONS

4. MECHANICAL MALFUNCTIONS

5. MALFUNCTIONS IN THE COMPUTER OR SIGNAL NETWORK

CHECK THE EASIEST THINGS FIRST:

1. FLUID LEVEL AND CONDITION

2. SHIFTER LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT / THROTTLE CABLE ADJUSTMENT

Typically, this is the cause of the 2nd gear servo not applying enough pressure to the band to engage.

• These can be replaced with heavier-duty billet styled servo.

Contaminates in the pumps/valvebody/solenoids/etc. can cause malfunction.

CONTROL VALVE BODY BOLTS...132in-lbs

OIL SCREEN RETAINING BOLTS...132in-lbs

OIL PAN BOLTS...144in-lbs

TORQUE CONVERTER TO FLEXPLATE BOLTS...35

TRANSMISSION TO ENGINE (BELLHOUSING) BOLTS...25

SPEEDOMETER DRIVEN GEAR BOLTS...96in-lbs

FLUID COOLER LINE TO TRANSMISSION...23

FLUID COOLER LINE TO RADIATOR...25

LINKAGE SWIVEL CLAMP NUT...20

CONVERTER BRACKET TO ADAPTER...156in-lbs

TRANSMISSION REAR SUPPORT BOLTS...40

REAR MOUNTING TO SUPPORT NUTS...21

SUPPORT CENTER NUT...33

ADAPTER TO TRANSMISSION BOLTS...33

Under normal driving conditions, change the transmission fluid every 100,000 miles (160.000 km). Use DEXRON-II or equivalent*.

*TYPE F RECOMMENDED DUE TO HIGHER FRICTION MODIFIERS

Change the fluid every 15,000 miles (24.000 km) if the vehicle is driven:

1. In heavy city traffic where temperatures regularly reach 90°F (32°C).

2. In areas where steep incline is common.

3. Frequent trailer use.

4. Commercial use; ie. taxi, police, or delivery.

Pan removal... 7.0 pts. (3.3 liters)

Overhaul... 22.0 pts. (10.4 liters)

1. Remove ground, then power from the battery terminals.Be sure to secure these out of contact's reach.

2. Safely suspend the car.

3. Remove the front-most 12 of the 16 transmission pan bolts. Being sure to safely tuck electrical components to the side of need be. Keep the back 4 bolts on with about 4 turns out.

4. Be sure to catch all of the fluid that pours out, once flow has stopped, gently remove the remaining 4 bolts. Keep in mind, the pan will still be holding fluid so keep balance in mind as you need to empty this out and check for contaminates. The valvebody and transmission will still be leaking at this point. It's always good idea to use proper eye protection & have tarps, rags, and cardboard around you when doing this type of work.

5. Empty the pan and do a full visual-inspection of the underside of the transmission. Let drain.

6. Here is where I noticed a fine looking valvebody, a function tv cable / 2nd gear. This is also the point where I noticed I had no TCC wires at all.

7. Install new filter and gasket. Re-torque all of the trans. pan bolts to spec.

8. Begin by locating the pigtails and checking the wire for any signs of fault.

9. Find the other end of the wires and crimp them together with some heat wrap.

10. Secure the wiring along the top of the transmission, fill with 4-7.5 Quarts of Dexron-III. (If the transmission is dry steer closer to 10 Quarts.)

11. And it works!!! Beat the piss out of 'er. Happy driving.